The Suit | 2016-17 Autumn Trends

Fine tailoring and classic masculine suits have graced the runway this season with the world following suit. The outdated trends have been replaced with a modern, upbeat and sleek style, showing the suit in the back of your wardrobe is due an update.Styles always go out of fashion in the industry and this is true also for the suit. Long from the days of Coco Chanel’s revolutionary designs during the war, the suit has now transformed. Designers have innovated the suit, thinking clearly about the aspects of the design that make it so classic. The suit never seems to have a sustained silhouette throughout history, which is true of the present trend. With shoulder width, shape, length and lapel size, fashion has bought an entire overhaul of this trend to make a deadly combination of style. Although too much and the suit loses all its power.

The sign of empowerment was seen all over the runway, with Gucci bringing heritage suits with rounded shoulders to the runway. Accompanied with loose trousers created a laid-back but business-like silhouette. Proving that the classic styles have been updated to suit the season. Dolce and Gabbana bought brightness to their spring/summer 2016 collection with a trouser suit adorned with flowers. A plain dark trim decorated the lapels, defining the tight-fitted silhouette. The culottes, plain, contrasted well with the vibrancy of the flowers that embellished both the front and back of the jacket. The basic silhouette has adapted into a look that will truly flaunt one’s figure and style, as well as keeping the business-like, serious aspect that this classic style will always retain.

The suit has been worn by stars in many ways; to ensure a serious style or an off-duty look. Model Gigi Hadid paired a garishly coloured, striped two-piece trouser suit with a simple, white crop top with trainers. Although casual, a look that was surely envied by many. Simply pairing with a pair of sunglasses, loose, flowing hair and minimal make-up, gave this look the laid back styling it needed to tone down the matching co-ordinate trousers and jacket. 

Ellery bought the 60s back with an homage to the flared trouser, though this was perfectly tailored, fitting the model like a glove. The silhouette, though simple, flatters. The trousers, floor length, give the wearer the illusion of being much taller that one probably is. The double-breasted jacket is sleek and creaseless with only half the hands being shown. The rounded neck of the t-shirt almost suffocates the model and creates a straightjacket; an image which is not helped by the long hanging fabric from the back. The model looks emancipated from the restrains of the jacket, a much different kind of liberation that Ellery is effectively symbolising.

 The Brookes Brother’s created a much more traditional silhouette with their take on the trend. A double-pocketed khaki tunic was matched with wide legged trousers, with the trouser seam being made obvious. The outfit, styled with a striped top of blue and red, takes its viewer back to a much different time period. Paired with flats, the silhouette is perfect for work and venturing out with its vibrant pairing of colours and patterns.

Even when examining much high platforms of society, the world is enraptured with the suit. Some of the most famous women in history used them to their political advantage to show they could be feminine, but also mean business. By having a touch of femininity, the suit also mocks the way that men dress. With masculine styles and a feminine edge, women proved themselves to be far more than what they wore. Hilary Clinton frequently wore adaptations of the suit whilst she ran as the Democratic Nominee for the 2016 Presidential election, whilst Margaret Thatcher often tried to mimic her male colleagues with her clothing, as well as having a domineering personality in order to achieve the same power as her male successors before her.

Max Mara bought an American gangster style with their adaptation of the suit, using pinstriped fabric to create an elongated, double-breasted jacket, tight on the shoulders to give shape to the body, then protruding outwards as it flows into the loose-fitted trousers. The contrast of the white pinstripes on black material gives the garment a gothic aesthetic whilst maintaining the designer’s ambiances. A single hair is not out of place, adding to the gothic atmosphere created by the styling of black gloves, blacked-out sunglasses and a deep black shade for the lip colour.

Calvin Klein opted for much larger pinstripes with boxy, masculine shoulders flowing, alike Max Mara, into a wider jacket, not conventionally fitting the body. The low neckline, tight and large belted top that is simply plain contrasts well with the exaggeration of the silhouette of the jacket and trousers. The trousers flow, ensuring that any movement will make you feel and look as if you are floating. This angelic trouser almost gives the illusion of a full skirt and, even loose, is the feminine touch that this traditionally masculine style needs.

The suit will always be the pinnacle of classic trends. However, it is what we do with this trend that determines how fashionable and how popular the style is. Designers have achieved this, perfectly mirroring the tradition it enraptures whilst maintaining a modern eye to their creations.